Exploring Kyoto With Friends

When I think back on our time at Kyoto, I laugh and smile. Why? Well, because even though we flew almost to the other side of the world, we still managed to run into friends from home! Whilst we were in Kyoto, two of our friends from the United States were also in Kyoto. The first couple, M and L, are our sushi buddies. We met them a few months ago at Umeya and we became fast friends. Like my mom and dad, L is American and his wife M is Japanese. We also spent some time with Mr. and Mrs. A, whilst we were in Tokyo, but I’ll talk about that more in my post entitled “Pre-Breakfast Coffee at Inoda.”

Anyway, so, we enjoyed our hearty Tawaraya breakfast and then made our way to the Ritz Carlton to meet M and L. They are a really fun and lively couple, and I enjoy spending time with them. They make me laugh.

Old house in Kyoto

Back in the day, goods were delivered via boats, like this

On our way to lunch, the five of us wandered Kyoto, chatting and laughing. We visited “Ponto-cho” (先斗町),  which is essentially one very long and narrow cobbled alley that runs parallel to the Kamo River. Ponto-cho is traditionally associated with the start of Japanese kabuki, and it is also known for Geishas, Geisha houses, and tea houses. According to Wikipedia: “Geisha have existed in Ponto-cho since at least the 16^th century, as have prostitution and other forms of entertainment. Today, the area, lit by traditional lanterns at night, contains a mix of very expensive restaurants --- often featuring outdoor riverside dining on wooden patios --- geisha houses and tea houses, brothels, bars, and cheap eateries.”

We didn’t see any Geisha, but it was a lot of fun walking the narrow street. Due to the maintained classic architecture and the New Years decorations, it felt as though we had traveled back to the past. It definitely did not feel like 2014. (We were in Kyoto before the New Year).

As exploring continued as we walked along busy main streets. With all of the holidays sales, the number of people shopping was astounding. It was like going against the current in a river of people --- very difficult and not very fun. I stuck with dad and L --- two big American lads.

We eventually arrived at an okonomiyaki restaurant for lunch. I’m never entirely sure how to translate okonomiyaki. Some call is a Japanese pancake, whilst others call is a Japanese pizza. I guess it’s a bit of both. The base of okonomiyaki is a savory pancake-like batter, the rest of the ingredients are up to you. Some include shredded cabbage, noodles, seafood, meat, mochi… etc. It’s sort of free-for-all kind of dish --- great for crowds. Normally, there is a grill in the middle of the table, like what you’d see at a hibachi restaurant. The okonomiyaki mixture is delivered to the table, where the guests cook it and share. That’s the usual way things work, but at the restaurant we went to, the okonomiyaki was cooked in the kitchen, which was a bit of a bummer.

Having walked a fair amount, we worked up an appetite. We ordered a couple of simple appetizers to keep us sated until the main event. M and L both ordered the “mixed” okonomiyaki, which included a bit of everything (seafood, meat, vegetables). My mother ordered the “fluffy” okonomiyaki, which included bits of mochi in it, whilst my dad ordered the Kyoto pork okonomiyaki. I ordered the most extravagant okonomiyaki, in my opinion. Mine was the double pork okonomiyaki, but I ordered it mainly because I wanted the fried egg on top. A couple years ago, I was watching an episode of Anthony Bourdain’s No Reservations and he was in Osaka. In that episode, he ate a pork okonomiyaki with a fried egg on top and from that moment on, I was determined to have one too. Mission accomplished. It was super delicious!

 

Grilled squid

Grilled tofu skin

Mochi okonomiyaki

Pork okonomiyaki and mixed okonomiyaki

My double pork with a fried egg

The afternoon was spent exploring Kyoto some more. The five of us visited Kyoto’s Nishiki Market, which was super mobbed, but a lot of fun. (I will elaborate on this in a different post.) After the market, we parted ways with M and L. They returned to their hotel, but we continued to explore Kyoto.

We walked along Sanjo-dori, a major street in Kyoto, which is lined with stores. We saw the statue of Okuni, the supposed founder of Japanese kabuki, as well as Kyoto’s kabuki theater.

Kamo River

Statue of Okuni

Kyoto's Kabuki theater

We eventually made our way to the Gion district (祇園) of Kyoto. Gion dates back the medieval period and originally served as an area of accommodation for travelors and visitors of the nearby Yasaka Shrine. Over time, Gion evolved and became one of Kyoto’s most exclusive neighborhoods, heavily associated with Geisha. (For example, in the novel Memoirs of a Geisha, Gion is the main setting.)

Sadly, by the time we arrived at Gion, the weather had turned sour. It was cold, grey, and starting rain. That said, we still enjoyed walking around Gion. I love the architecture of this district. Much like Ponto-cho, Gion had managed to maintain classic Japanese architecture, providing visitors with the sensation of time travel. Who needs the Doctor and a blue box?

Before heading back to the hotel, we visited Yasaka Shrine. In the Middle Ages, pilgrims from all over Japan came to pray at this shrine. It was really beautiful and oozed antiquity. With the New Year just around the corner, it was incredibly busy with visitors praying, making donations, and asking for good luck in the New Year.

Our day of exploration was busy – we certainly did a lot of walking -- but it was totally enjoyable. It was wonderful being able to spend time with M and L and build memories with them. It was also just nice being able to walk around Kyoto and see what this ancient city has to offer. Since were were limited on time, a mere two days, I think walking around was the way to go. What better way is there to see a city and get to know her?