Tawaraya - One of Kyoto's Most Famous and Oldest Ryokans

On this visit to Kyoto, rather than stay at a hotel, my parents and I were fortunate enough two spend two nights at the very famous and exclusive Tawaraya ryokan. Tawaraya is considered one of the most famous and posh ryokans in Japan. Past guests have included Steven Spielberg, Alfred Hitchcock, and even Marlon Brando! (Many famous Japanese people have stayed here as well, but these three just popped into my head). We made our reservation one year in advance, but even then, we had difficulty getting a room! 

To quote Wikipedia: "A ryokan (旅館) is a type of traditional Japanese inn that originated in the Edo Period (1603 ~ 1868), when such inns served travelers along Japan's highways. They typically feature tatami-matted rooms, communal baths, and other public areas where visitors may wear yukata and talk with the owner…Most ryokans offer dinner and breakfast, which are often included in the price of the room. Most visitors take their meals at the ryokan, which usually promote themselves no the quality of their food. Meals consist for traditional Japanese cuisine known as kaiseki, which features seasonal and regional specialties."

Tawaraya is nearly 300 years old, first opening it's doors during the Edo period. In addition to the American celebrities I have listed, Tawaraya has hosted a huge array of Japanese dignitaries and aristocrats alike. In addition to it's history and beauty, Tawaraya is famous for it's impeccable service, which goes above and beyond. The staff is incredibly efficient, knowledgable, and personable. To quote a trip advisor website I found, "guests who stay at Tawaraya will experience true hospitality, and will feel more like royalty than customers." This is absolutely accurate. To further quote the website: "Everything is of the highest standard and the inn makes no compromises in terms of providing their guests with the finest food and service. The amenities provided are of the highest quality to provide a truly homely and welcoming environment." I couldn't have phrased it better myself! 

From the outside, Tawaraya has a rather unassuming and possibly even underwhelming appearance. It looks like a classic Japanese house. Nothing amazing. That all changes as soon as you enter the ryokan. On entering Tawaraya, you find yourself in a small courtyard of sorts. Rather than immediately enter the ryokan, there is a small stone entry. It is very small, but homey and welcoming. Rustic decorations hang, inviting you to enter. Since we arrived just before New Years, there were New Years decorations, which were absolutely gorgeous. As you turn the corner, the entrance appears. One must remove ones shoes before stepping up onto the tatami floors of the ryokan. I felt as thought I had time slipped and had been transported back to Edo Japan. It was a magical feeling.

The entryway 

The main centerpiece located near the entrance of Tawaraya.

The hanging branches are decorated with pink and white mochi --- these are traditional Japanese New Years decorations.

Another beautiful inner courtyard

One of Tawaraya's small communal spaces

Beautiful display

More New Years decorations

Absolutely stunning!

With our shoes removed, we were shown to our room. My parents and I were shocked by the size and beauty of the room. I was expected a small tatami room, but that is not what we received! Our room was massive, boasting two tatami rooms, a small reading nook, and full bathroom with a wooden hot bath tub. Incredible. I already felt like I had been transported back to Edo Japan, but this just confirmed my feelings. We really lucked out!

The dining area tatami room

The sleeping area tatami room

Reading nook

The two tatami rooms

Sink area of the bathroom

The bathtub

The view from our room

The days leading up to our stay at Tawaraya were a bit stressful. The world of the ryokan was totally foreign to us. It is a world steeped in tradition and etiquette --- one false move and you can be looked down upon. Or at least that's what we thought. My parents and I reflected upon how impressed we were with Tawaraya's ability to immediately make us feel at ease. Although we were unaware of proper ryokan rules and etiquette, the staff was always so kind and gracious --- never an ounce of judgement.

Furthermore, Tawaraya as a whole had a very homey and comfortable aura. The only "con" per say, if you can call it a "con", was having to sit on the floor. Considering the history of Tawaraya, I'm not surprised by how old school they were. The female staff wore kimonos, the tables were low to the ground, and theoretically, we were expected to sit seiza (on our knees). My father and I didn't bother because we cannot do this, but my poor mother tried to sit seiza, but I fear that she may have crippled her legs slightly… Apart from sitting on the floor, which was not the most comfortable way to eat dinner (not to mention constantly hitting my leg against the table, our stay at Tawaraya was incredible!

From the moment we arrived, to the moment we left, we felt perpetually relaxed. We absolutely loved our stay here and cannot wait to return soon! If you find yourself traveling to Kyoto and you have the ability to splurge a bit, I would definitely recommend Tawaraya. It will give you a truly traditional Japanese experience. The ryokan is elegant, the staff is wonderful, and the food is superb. You cannot go wrong!

I took this picture whilst sitting in the nook